I think I warned you about that Palomino 2100+ of yours being the worst Socket 'A' CPU for overclocking that AMD ever produced, as you are finding out.
The run HOT right from the factory, and even hotter when overclocked, and more so when overvolted and yours is both now.
It's the Vcore that will raise the power consumption. And power = heat, and heat is our enemy.
It's the temperature that shortens the life of any electronic component, not the voltage. (within reason, of course)
And, as the core speed of any CPU goes up, it becomes less and less 'temperature tolerant'
I think this is what you were experiencing when "it started to go haywire"
My own personal "This is getting too hot to be expecting any
reliability temperature" is in the 53° ~ 55° Celsius range.
The general 'rule-of-thumb' is that for every 10°C that you can lower the temp, you will DOUBLE the life expectancy.
You need some kind of software to monitor your CPU temperature (while running programs in Windows) because when you are looking at the CPU temp in CMOS the CPU is not 'working' at all... it's basically 'idling'
On my own M848A v2.1 I use SpeedFan from http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
for temperature and voltage information.
On my PCChips M848ALU...
Temp1 will always be MY CPU Temp, and
Temp2 will show a constant, bogus, 127°C
Temp3 will show a constant, bogus, 64 ~ 66°C.
HD0 Temp is, I believe, my Hard Drive temp, if the HD has an internal temp sensor.
This 'assignment' of temp #s varies from mobo to mobo... so always compare SpeedFan's values with what's in your CMOS... your CMOS always tells 'the Gospel truth'
In order to determine if it is heat tat is causing your problems when running overclocked, try pulling one side off of your case, and just set up a small desk fan blowing cool air directly into the box.
See if that helps to extend the length of time before the system starts to go haywire, and please let us know what you find out.
If it helps, then you'll immediately KNOW that it's a heat related problem, and now it's just a question of 'Which component?', and 'What can we do about it?'.
This is the 'quick & cheap & dirty way' to find out if something is getting too hot.
But it WORKS like a charm!
There are many easy, and inexpensive, ways to cool things down, if that's what's needed, and I believe that it is.
Lapping your current HS is one, and it's usually good for a 3 to 5° Celsius drop in CPU temps... just ask, if you need more instructions...http://www.themodfathers.jolt....age=...on=show&id=6153
Using the Arctic Silver paste, (if you aren't already), as a TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is good for another 3 to 5°C drop in CPU temps.http://www.arcticsilver.com/index.html
Just arranging your ribbon cables (with wire ties), so that they don't obstruct the air flow to the CPU is another.
And here's a $5 'cooling solution', that really works!
You cut a hole in the side panel to draw cool air from outside to cool your CPU.
Details can be found here... http://superfan.freewebspace.com/
When it comes to case ventilation, it is much more important to get the hot air out, than to blow cool air in.
There are lots of air inlet points at the bottom, and particularly at the bottom front, of ANY case.
It's getting the hot air out of the case that's so difficult.
A single, large, exhaust fan (or two smaller ones, side by side), at the very top of the case is the best solution, but that requires that you somehow cut a hole in the very top of the case yourself.
Grolschie's instructions can be found here...http://radel.inet.net.nz/vents.html
And here's how a friend in England did the above...http://www.rhcf.com/sis-bin/ul....cgi...15;t=000088;p=2
I can't understand why case manufactures won't put a nice round 80mm or 90mm hole, with a simple chrome grill covering it, at the top center of their case.
This would allow the hot air inside the case to rise, by simple convection, and exit through the hole.
It just makes too much sense, I guess!
Second best is a single exhaust fan at the back of the case, just below the PSU.
Or, just buy a better CPU HS/F, and if you prefer cool AND quiet, then go to watercooling.
Here's a couple of inexpensive solutions, both from Newegg.com, first, for $10.99...http://www.newegg.com/app/View...esc....epa=0§ion=3
And for just a little more ($14.99), here's one that a friend just bought two of, and he's happily running his 2200+ Barton Mobile at 3200+ speeds...http://www.newegg.com/app/View...esc....-103-143&depa=0
Below this point we are no longer in the 'cheap & easy' solutions... this stuff gets expensive!
The fan I like, and want to try, but haven't yet, (one is on it's way and should be here soon), is the CoolerMaster AERO4 Lite...
I like the concept of using the 'Squirrel Cage' type blower... there is no 'hole' in the center, where the CPU core is actually located, that is blocked by the fan's motor (as it IS, when using any 'normal' fan).
It's available here in Canada with a low-medium-high fan speed switch, for $24.99 CAD, or about $20 US from...http://18.104.22.168/Itemdesc...tId=...OM%2DAABV81&Tp=
Combine the above with any 1/2 decent, solid copper, thin-fin, heatsink, like the one below, and you'll have a winner!
ThermalrightSLK900A... $46.99 from Newegg... http://www.newegg.com/app/view...esc....-109-011&depa=1
Here is my new PCChips M848A' ">http://img.photobucket.com/alb...2_T-2-3-3-6-2_M848.jpg v2.1, with a 1700+ @ 2411 MHz, and my trusty old PCChips M810L' ">http://members.lycos.co.uk/mmm...00MHz_Sandra_tests.jpg v7.1A, with a Barton 2500+ @ over 3500+. Some of my fancy cars are on this pag