Topic Title: water cooling
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Created On: 05/09/2013 09:35 PM
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 05/09/2013 09:35 PM
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Vegan
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I have a Corsair Carbide 300R and I noticed it does have some options for basic water cooling of the CPU.

Do these units have enough thermal capacity to run my Phenom at 4GHz and not overheat with an extreme load?

 



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 05/10/2013 07:28 PM
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Mime
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That depends on the cooling... cheap watercooling often performs similar or slightly worse than high end air cooling, so if you want to overclock things don't get a kit built to be quiet without being sure of what it can do. What case you put it in doesn't matter so long as everything still fits inside it.

If it doesn't... that's what the dremel is for.  



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 05/10/2013 10:11 PM
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Vantharas
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I know any Corsair H70 / H80 / H100 / H110 Will any phenom or thuban @ 4ghz without any issue for the most part. Assuming the CPU is good for it. I know my 965 was only good for 3.8. My 960T is good for 4ghz.



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 05/11/2013 05:26 PM
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Mime
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Yeah... a lot of people seem to like the coolers from Corsair.  I'm old school on watercooling and always lean towards building my own loop.... either way should work.



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 05/13/2013 02:48 PM
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Vegan
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Right now I am sticking with the factory propeller, but after I get some new graphcis cards I might go for a CPU upgrade.

I have been considering water as it seems to be able to take more heat. I tend to overclock my CPU a lot.

My old Athlon which is now running my server was overclocked to 2.98 GHz and it was stable. I run it stock now as the server load is not that bad.

 

 



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 06/04/2013 04:32 PM
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When I reassembled my machine, I used MX-4 for the CPU cooler as I had some left from other work.

I tried the CPU at 4GHz and I was pleased the CPU would run without getting hot as hell.

Even better while warm it does not go into thermal runaway, it actually holds the line

multiplier 20 is rock stable, so how the question is, how fast can it go?

 



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 06/22/2013 07:18 AM
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Bulldog64
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I agree with Mime on Liq. Cooling. I started out with a simple closed loop cooler with the thought in mind that as I figured out exactly what I was going to cool with what cooling components I would proceed to building my own loop system. I would caution any one who is not familiar with liquid cooling to spend time studying how to do it, because if you are going into it to OC your system and run full time that way you better not go cheap or you will go through a lot of equipment failures and the accompanying hole in your wallet. Stick with name brand components and test your loop for correct functioning out side the case where leaks will not cause you catastrophic failures and a difficult clean up.  An inexpensive power supply tester, $14-20, is an invaluable tool that allows you to power up your loop without having to run power through the MOBO or any of the system components other than the pumps and fans. You can catch leaks and other mistakes without ruining your MOBO and GPU which I did when I first started out. It can be rewarding. I run my 965 around 4.1 GHz and OC my NB and memory full time. Like all the AMD people I look forward to the day I can get my hands on a 5GHz part to play with!



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 06/22/2013 02:59 PM
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Thanny
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It's not necessary to test the loop outside the case, and sometimes it's just not possible (such as when you have motherboard blocks).  Just unplug everything but pumps and radiator fans.  A little bit of water won't hurt anything that isn't powered on.

To get the power supply to turn on, you need only a paper clip bent into a U shape.  Short pin 16 and 17 (or any ground pin) to turn the PSU on.  If your unit is in spec, the wire for pin 16 will be green.  If all the wires are black for stupid aesthetic reasons (like with the Corsair AX1200i), you'll want to look at a diagram of the ATX connector and count pins.

Now you can run your pump(s) to bleed the system and check for leaks, and you don't have to worry about creating a leak by trying to shove your loop back into the case after testing. 

 

 06/22/2013 06:11 PM
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Vegan
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right now with the better thermal grease I have my CPU running stable at 4GHz 

so I am now rethinking my choices given my lower cost thermal interface meterial earned its keep

 



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 06/23/2013 12:13 AM
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Mime
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I always leak test as the last step in final assembly just in case, but compression fittings have pretty much made leaks a non-issue these days.



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 06/24/2013 01:08 AM
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Bulldog64
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I have a case that allows me to slide the MOBO assembly out of the case. I have two quick disconnectors that allow the MOBO assembly with tubing attached to be moved into or out of the case. Once the MOBO assembly is out of the case I reconnect the quick disconnectors back after any maintenance such as adding to or changing the cooling system has been completed. now it's a simple task to leak check the system and be able to observe it better than if it is inside the case. While your shorting pins on the PSU will work I would not recommend that one to the public in general. Spend a few bucks and get the power tester .You'll be safer, it is idiot proof, and you'll have a PSU tester if you ever suspect your PSU unit of not supplying the proper voltages on your different power inputs. I like to leak test for a few hours before I give it a thumbs up. As far as the comment that water won't short anything that's not powered on I would agree, but if you have a small leak and you don't catch it because you can't see it and then you power the system up thinking everything is ok, well.....been there done that with coolant that was supposed to be nonconductive and it killed an ASUS M4A79T Deluxe and a Sappire 2x 4870 twin GPU - a painful and expensive lesson learned. I realize that most cases because of their design won't allow you to do things the way I do, but after I started doing this I never killed another MOBO or other expensive component again and I've built systems that liquid cooled the CPU, NB, SB, Mosfet voltage regulators, memory, and GPU. Besides my case a big secret of this system are the 2 quick disconnect connectors made by Coolance. After I put my MOBO assembly back into the case and reconnect it I do one more leak test just to make sure that something didn't get dislodged in the process. One quick comment about the various connectors that are used with different cooling blocks don't trust that they just work. It's very easy to make a mistake connecting things that's why you thoroughly test your system for leaks before you shove power through it. We all use different approaches to solve the liquid cooling problem and no one approach works for everyone and their equipment. This approach is one that I've made work for my environment.



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 06/24/2013 11:59 AM
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Mime
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Yeah... quick disconnects are the only reasonable way to do leak testing outside the case.  Otherwise you end up battling a many-tentacled thing when trying to put everything back in the case.

The nice thing about doing it that way is that it's easier to clean up any leaks that do happen.  Sometimes that can get annoying when everything's inside the case already depending on exactly where the leak happens.



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