Topic Title: (SOLVED) Chassis cabling help for Packard Bell iPower X3.0 case
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Created On: 04/11/2014 10:30 PM
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 04/11/2014 10:30 PM
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Ed209
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I recently got the ASRock FM2A88M Extreme4+ motherboard and I fitted it into my case which is the Packard Bell iPower X3.0 (I know it's kinda old but i like plain style). I have all the plainly obvious chassis cables hooked up like the USB ports and the HDAudio and I'm left with two.

The only other things left on the case would be the Power button, and the card reader part both of which are right next to each other at the front top of the case.

I have some pictures i took which can hopefully shed some light on this little issue of mine.


http://oi57.tinypic.com/359h1xd.jpg


http://oi59.tinypic.com/i55dur.jpg


Any ideas which one is which and where they would go on the motherboard?



Edited: 04/18/2014 at 11:32 AM by Ed209
 04/12/2014 10:54 PM
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Thanny
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Assuming the second picture is for the card reader, it looks like a single USB port connector.  Just attach it to half of a free USB header.  Make sure the blank pin spot matches the missing pin on the header.

The first picture looks like a front panel bundle.  There's no way to tell from that picture whether each wire matches the layout of your new board's panel header.  See page 23 in your motherboard manual for how each pair of wires (the ones twisted together) should line up on the connector.  If necessary, it's not that hard to remove pins and reposition then.  You just need a small flathead screwdriver, like ones used with eyegl***** (very small).

 

 04/13/2014 02:36 AM
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Ed209
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In the motherboard layout:

#19 is the Power LED header (PLED1)

#20 is the Chassis Speaker Header (Speaker1)

#18 is the System Panel Header

 

Here are more screen shots.

Some showing where those two cables come from, i know they are heading up front where the power button and multi card reader is.

 

http://oi62.tinypic.com/2vukhut.jpg

http://oi59.tinypic.com/2ed5m48.jpg

http://oi58.tinypic.com/2qv3vj6.jpg

http://oi62.tinypic.com/b69che.jpg

 

In the olden days.... it was much more simple for me.

At least I'll be able to publish these findings to help others who may get this PC case in future because there is no help available for it according to Packard Bell. It is a really nice sleek case, while at the same time discreet and not lit up like a Christmas tree either, just how i like them.

 

EDIT: Here's a screenshot with tagged ports.

http://oi61.tinypic.com/14t8x7b.jpg



Edited: 04/13/2014 at 03:22 AM by Ed209
 04/14/2014 01:31 AM
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Ed209
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Originally posted by: Thanny Assuming the second picture is for the card reader, it looks like a single USB port connector.  Just attach it to half of a free USB header.  Make sure the blank pin spot matches the missing pin on the header.

 

The first picture looks like a front panel bundle.  There's no way to tell from that picture whether each wire matches the layout of your new board's panel header.  See page 23 in your motherboard manual for how each pair of wires (the ones twisted together) should line up on the connector.  If necessary, it's not that hard to remove pins and reposition then.  You just need a small flathead screwdriver, like ones used with eyegl***** (very small).

 

 

 

The yellow headed cable is indeed for the for the card reader, at least it goes into there anyway, so your assumption was on target.

 

I opened up the top of the case and took some more pics:

Yellow headed cable http://oi61.tinypic.com/30kdfgi.jpg

 

This picture is for the other cables, they do go to the power switch.

http://oi62.tinypic.com/muapa8.jpg

This one shows which sockets are occupied on the plug
http://oi58.tinypic.com/2ahuz2d.jpg

 

So... will i really need to take that plug apart? I can tell right now I'm gonna screw it up as I'm pretty heavy handed.

 

EDIT: I forgot to upload this picture:

http://oi61.tinypic.com/2lc6w5y.jpg

 

Would i connect the PERIF cable that was supplied with the PSU to this?

 

I should be getting my CPU cooler today or tomorrow and when that is hooked up i can start experimenting a little, i realize there isn't much juice going to these types of connectors so nothing should be damaged (I hope anyway).

 

 

 



Edited: 04/14/2014 at 04:03 AM by Ed209
 04/14/2014 06:36 PM
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Thanny
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If those pins are empty, then you will definitely need to rewire the connector.

What you need to do is follow the wires back and figure out what they do. 

That small powered board might make it more complicated.  Was it powered before?  It's still possible that power and reset are simple passthrough mechanical switches, and that the power is for some additional functionality you may or may not use.  What's on the front side of it?

If the pins on that board aren't labelled, you might want to get a multimeter with continuity testing.  The idea is to figure out which pins are shorted by the power and reset buttons.

Only once you know which wires are for which function (power and reset buttons, then power and hard drive LED's) can you match them to the diagram in the motherboard manual.  The orientation for the buttons is irrelevant.  The LED's have a polarity, however, and won't work if reversed.

 

 04/15/2014 06:03 AM
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Ed209
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I bought this case form Ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Packard-Bell-iPower-X3-0-Gaming-Computer-Case-With-500WATT-PSU-NEW-/130879320511?nma=true&si=sOt6L%252BHvZDBfUF5rhAUdfthW29M%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

There was no hardware inside it, just the case and some PSU which i replaced already.

 

Ok, so i took the top case panel off completely and snapped some more pictures to get a good look at how the cables were fed to exactly.

 

Exterior, power button/dial switch - http://oi61.tinypic.com/2ebxwdw.jpg

Interior of the power/dial switch - http://oi58.tinypic.com/qprnkx.jpg

Cable for power/dial switch - http://oi57.tinypic.com/69dset.jpg

 

Yesterday only my Windows OS came in the mail, so hopefully today my CPU cooler and DVD drive come and i can actually begin hooking it all up and do some testing.

I'm going to try hooking that plug into the System Panel Header on the motherboard like i had it previously and see if that actually works. 

and i'll hook up the PERIF cable from the PSU to this ROHS panel - http://oi61.tinypic.com/2lc6w5y.jpg

 

BTW the cables which come from the power and dial switch do not feed into that ROHS panel so I'm guessing those thin cables are for LED activity indicators and case lights.

I read on TomsHardware someone who has this case and said the case lights were red, so they might be cool if they work, just glad they can be turned off though.

 

How do i give kudos to you on this site?

 

Thanks for your help, i honestly do appreciate it.

 

 

 

 

 



Edited: 04/15/2014 at 06:14 AM by Ed209
 04/17/2014 03:19 AM
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Thanny
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There's certainly a lot going on with that case.  Between your pictures and what I found online (which is minimal), here's my best guess thus far:

1)  The button on top is for power only.  The dial functions as the power LED. 

2)  The red/white pair coming out of the button/dial combo is for the power switch, and is in the correct position on the motherboard front panel connector. 

3)  The blue/white pair is for the power LED, which is part of the dial switch.  The switch itself would toggle other case LED's that are powered elsewhere (perhaps via that small board with the Molex power input).  The wire as a whole is in the right position on the panel connector, but I can't see where the individual wires are going, so can't say whether or not the polarity is correct.

4)  The other wires come from an LED somewhere on the front of the case, which is meant to indicate hard drive activity.  That's where the wire goes on the panel connector, anyway, and it does seem to have the correct polarity.  In general, with jumper wires like that, the colored wire is for positive, and the white/black wire is for negative or ground.

So the panel connector looks like it can be plugged in as is.  You just don't have a reset switch.

The buttons on either side of the power switch look like simple momentary switches.  The one on the right (from above) looks like it has an eject symbol on it, which would mean that cable below it is meant to connect to the back of a proprietary optical drive.  Good luck finding one.

I can't tell what the other button is, or where the wire leads.  I also can't tell what the two front buttons (one's labelled "Photo Frame) would do with the case assembled.

 

 04/18/2014 08:47 AM
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Ed209
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It all works as i had it hooked up. I've never came across that before and as a result thought it wouldn't work. Glad it does and everything works flawlessly on the case.

 

All 4 USB's work as does the memory card readers, at least the memory card readers that i actually have cards to test in them all worked so there's no reason why the rest shouldn't

 

The case lights aren't as bright or Christmas tree like as i thought they were going to be and actually quite pleasant at night when with the lamp off.

 

I took some more pics to show the case working and one for the system info/WEI score if you are interested.

 

Case:

http://oi61.tinypic.com/2lb0qwl.jpg

http://oi61.tinypic.com/23k7jw8.jpg

http://oi62.tinypic.com/5fi3cl.jpg

 

Even when you lift the little storage compartment lid up at the back of the case the lights are let through into it as well.

http://oi58.tinypic.com/5bo5cy.jpg

http://oi57.tinypic.com/alit0k.jpg

 

System Info/WEI score/CPUid

http://oi57.tinypic.com/2aaftwz.jpg

 

I redeemed my code for Battlefield 4 and i have to say that I'm very surprised that i can enjoy the Story mode side of things without a graphics card installed.

On 1920x1080:

x2 MSAA with some things are on Ultra, some on High and Medium with things like Post Processing on low and off where i can turn them off. I'm not sure of the frame rates during the Story mode but the gameplay is smooth and enjoyable with absolutely no stuttering or screen tear or jaggies, and the cut scenes play flawlessly as well.

 

Multiplayer is a different story however, but not a bad story at all.

Playing on a full server i have had to drop down to 1280x720 with mostly Medium settings with one or two thing on high and the post processing stuff set the same as when playing the Story mode. I still have x2MSAA turned on and my frames according to the in game benchmark test is 46FPS on some maps and 54 on smaller and indoor maps. I don'[t get any screen tear or stuttering or jaggies on multiplayer so again I'm happy with that as the gameplay is to me liquid smooth as it is in the Story mode.

 

I haven't ran any benchmarking software as I honestly don't care about that sort of thing, I'm just happy with my purchase and I'm looking forward to hooking up my G27 Sterring wheel and getting down to some racing!

 

This little APU is in a class of its own I'm still stunned at the settings i could use on Battlefield 4 during the story mode.

I was skeptical of the hype, skeptical of the tests and skeptical of praise it was getting from others on youtube for example. I assumed since they have big youtube channels with millions of subscribers they were getting paid to say nice things about it.

Now i have seen it for myself, I can now say nice things about it as well.

The 7850K has totally blew my skepticism out of the water.

I'm going to enjoy the hell out of this APU!

 

System specs:
7850K APU

8GB Kingston HyperX Beast @2133MHz (Though rated for 2400MHz i get BSOD after a few minutes of up time when i use the 2400MHz profile)

Kingston HyperX 3KSSD 120GB - Boot time ~15 seconds without doing any reg tweaks or MSconfig tweaks.

ASRock FM2A88M Extreme4+ mATX motherboard.

EVGA NEX650G PSU (Gold rated and a 5year warranty were the selling points plus the headroom for additional RAM and HDD's and perhaps even a GPU later)

Oh and a Packard Bell iPower X3.0 case

 

.... Very happy AMD customer!

 

BTW thanks for your help, i honestly do appreciate it. How do i give your posts kudos on here?

 

EDIT: I have seen some people WEI scores for the 7850K and they got a 7.0 or 7.1 (can't remeber which) so I'm guessing they have slightly overclocked theirs as i haven't touched anything at all on mine. The only thing i have done is set the XMP for the ram to get it to 2133MHz.... well it's really 2129MHz given the DRAM Frequency is 1064.5.

Any tweaks for the CPU/GPU or whatever you can recommend doing?



Edited: 04/18/2014 at 09:37 AM by Ed209
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